Foodies' Heaven | Time-honored restaurants to enjoy dim sum in GZ (Ⅰ) 它们征服了最会吃的广州人·陶陶居篇
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Tao Tao Ju (Tou Tou Koi) Restaurant enjoyed a good reputation in the Republic of China era. 民国时期,陶陶居已经名满广州。


Nowadays, it is usual to see crowds of customers waiting outside some restaurants of Guangzhou in early mornings for 'Zaocha (dim sum or Cantonese morning tea)' . But in such a city full of particular foodies, what qualities are necessary for restaurants to remain popular with time passing by?

每天清晨,广州的各大茶楼还没开张,门外就已挤满了等待进场的食客——只有搭配着刚出炉的包点,嘬上一口茶,广州人的一天才算真正开始。在广州,一家茶楼要想常年屹立绝非易事。不过,有那么几家老字号,凭借各自的独家“配方”,百多年来一直安抚着广州人刁钻的胃口,也留下了不少传颂至今的故事。

Today, let's explore the stories of some time-honored traditional restaurants in Guangzhou, beginning with Tao Tao Ju Restaurant

今天让我们一起走近广州茶楼的老字号之一——陶陶居。

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陶陶居  Tao Tao Ju Restaurant (Tou Tou Koi)


Founded by businessman Huang Chengbo in 1880 during Emperor Guangxu's reign in the Qing Dynasty, Tao Tao Ju (Tou Tou Koi) Restaurant started its business around today's Dishifu Lu in Liwan district. It is said that the restaurant was named Pu Tao Ju Restaurant at first after Huang's wife Pu Tao (meaning grape in Chinese). 

陶陶居开业于1880年(清光绪六年),选址在今天的广州西关第十甫路。一个叫黄澄波的人,见此地没有茶楼酒肆,便盖了一间近百平方米的老式大屋,开了个茶室。据说黄的妻子名葡萄,便以此为字号,叫“葡萄居”。

But the business had closed down for quite a period of time after Huang passed away and hadn't resumed until 1927 when Tan Jienan, a tycoon in the catering industry, took over the restaurant. Due to a lack of fund, Tan had to resort to an old-style Chinese private bank, whose owner changed the name of the restaurant to Tao Tao Ju.

后来黄老板去世,曾一度停业。1927年,茶楼大王谭杰南接手“葡萄居”,后因规模过大超支,又向关恒昌银号求助。新股东嫌“葡萄居”这名不雅,从一间茶室买来了“陶陶居”的匾额,从此改名“陶陶居”,取其“乐也陶陶”之意。

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Tao Tao Ju (Tou Tou Koi) Restaurant in the Republic of China era 民国时期的陶陶居 

During the late Qing Dynasty and the early Republic of China era, Tao Tao Ju Restaurant started to serve first-class tea brewed with mountain spring water in teapots from Yixing city of Jiangsu province on stoves made in Chaozhou city of Guangdong, which both stood for exquisite craftsmanship.

清末民初,陶陶居便开始选用上等茶叶和山泉水泡茶,并以宜兴茶煲、潮州炭炉作烹茶用具,派专人侍于厅堂雅座。这一招,使陶陶居名声大噪。

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Rice in Soup with Lobster is one of the classic dishes of Tao Tao Ju (Tou Tou Koi) Restaurant.  陶陶居经典菜式龙虾泡饭

The restaurant also adopted western food-matching style, serving meals comprised of crab meat, shark fin soup, vegetables, fried rice or noodles, with fruits and snacks at a reasonable price, which were popular with customers.

陶陶居还创立了中食西化,以“全餐”最具特色:分为大小两款,每款均有蟹肉鱼翅、时菜四式、炒饭或甫鱼净面任一碗,同时配以生果、瓜子,再以山水名茶包尾,味美价廉,方便快捷,大受食客的欢迎。



Shrimp dumplings served in Tao Tao Ju Restaurant. 陶陶居出品的虾饺



Glutinous rice chickens served in Tao Tao Ju Restaurant. 陶陶居出品的糯米鸡



Turnip cakes made with spring water served by Tao Tao Ju. (Photo: Wang Weixuan/Guangzhou Daily) 陶陶居出品的山泉萝卜糕



Mooncakes made by Tao Tao Ju. (Photo: Wu Ziliang/Guangzhou Daily) 陶陶居月饼


With a number of signature dishes, Tao Tao Ju Restaurant has gained wide recognition not only in Guangzhou, but also in Hong Kong, Macao and Southeast Asia. In 2006, it was granted the title of time-horned brand of China. It ranked top on the list of Guangzhou's 10 most popular 'dim sum' restaurants published by market consultancy iiMedia Research in 2019.

如今陶陶居酒家以丰富的菜式吸引各方来客,更以正宗的粤式菜肴驰名省、港、澳及东南亚地区。2006年,被中国商务部认定为“中华老字号企业”;2019年,陶陶居在艾媒金榜发布的《2019最受网民喜爱广州早茶品牌 TOP10》榜单中位列第一位。


Author: Liu Liu, Yuan
Supervisor: Lv Yun
Editor: Lv Yun
Source: GZ-Maritimesilkroad (丝路云帆Silu Yunfan), official Wechat account of City Alliance for the Preservation and world Heritage Inscription of Maritime Silk Road Heritage
Courtesy: Guangzhou Municipal Bureau of Culture, Radio, Film and Tourism